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Little Girl's Dress in Panda Silk DK

Panda Silk DK Little Girl Dress
free knitted dress pattern for little girlDesigned by Gail Tanquary for Crystal Palace Yarns

Description: This adorably sweet little girl�s dress has raglan sleeves and eyelet accents, finished off with a beautiful ribbon waistband.

Level: Advanced Beginner to Intermediate

Sizes: Child size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) yrs

Materials:
4 (5, 6, 8, 9, 10) - 50 gm balls of Crystal Palace Panda Silk DK (bamboo-SW wool-silk)
Crystal Palace Bamboo needles
16" circular needle - size 3
26" circular needle - size 5
26" circular needle - size 8
9" Straight needles - size 5
1� yds ⅜" ribbon
Buttons 4 (4, 5, 5, 6, 6)

Gauge: 22 sts = 4" (top of dress) 20 sts = 4" (skirt)

Abbreviations: BO- bind off; CO- cast on; cont- continue; k- Knit; K2tog- knit 2 sts together; p- Purl; PM- place marker, PRM- place raglan marker; rep- repeat; rnd- round; RS- right side; ssk- slip slip knit; St st- stockinette stitch (k on the RS and p on the WS); st(s)- stitch(es); tog - together; WS- wrong side; yo- yarn over

Instructions:
Using size 3 - 16" circular needle, CO 85 sts for all sizes. Beginning with a WS row and a purl st, work 3 rows in k1x p1 rib, ending with a WS row.

Buttonhole row: Work rib to last 4 sts, yo, K2 tog, p1, k1.

Work 2 more rows in rib, ending with a RS row. Change to size 5 - 26" circular needle and work next row (WS) as follows:

Rib 8 for button band, PM
Purl 9 for left back, PRM
Purl 12 for sleeve, PRM
Purl 2, place odd colored marker, purl 23 for pattern panel, place odd-colored
marker, purl 2, PRM
Purl 12 for right sleeve, PRM
Purl 9 for right back, PM
Rib 8 for button band.

Next row (RS): Rib across button band, sl marker, (K to within 1 st of next raglan marker, yo, K1, sl marker, K1, yo) 4 times - 8 increases (4 raglans) made. K to last marker, sl marker, work rib to end.
Next row: Rib across button band, purl to last marker, rib to end (slipping all markers)

Begin pattern:
Row 1 (RS): Rib 8, then making raglan increases at markers as above, knit to first odd-colored marker, P2, (K5, P2) 3 times, knit to rib making raglan increases, rib to end.
Row 2 (WS): Rib 8, purl to first odd-colored marker, K2, (P5, K2) three times, P to last
marker, rib to end.
Row 3: Repeat Row 1 to odd-colored marker, P2, (ssk, yo, K1, yo, k2 tog, P2) 3 times,
work as for Row 1 to end.
Row 4: Repeat Row 2.

Rep these 4 rows, making buttonholes every 8th row (always a RS row), until there are 30 (32, 33, 34, 35, 37) sts on each back section, including sts of button band, ending with a WS row. Work one RS row in pattern without raglan increases; work one WS row in pattern. Piece should measure 4 (4�, 5, 5�, 5�, 6)" from neck ribbing.

Dividing row (RS): Work across sts of back in pattern (do not make raglan increases). Using size 5 straight needle, work across sleeve, leaving remaining sts on circular needle, using it as a holder. (Note: Divide the 2 sts between the yo increases, placing 1 st on the sleeve, the other st on the dress body).

On sleeve section only, work 5 (5, 5, 5, 7, 9) rows in St st, ending with a WS row.
Eyelet row (RS): K1, *yo, K2 tog* across sleeve.
P one row. Work 4 rows St st. BO loosely.

Work across sts of front with size 5 circular needle, eliminating raglan incs. Work across sts of second sleeve with size 5 straight needle. (Note: Make sure to divide the 2 sts between the yo increases, placing 1 st on the sleeve and the other st on the dress body.) Complete as for first sleeve.

Work across sts of back.
Next Row (WS): Rib 8, P to button band, Rib 8, joining back and front together.
Next Row: Rib 8, K to button band, Rib 8.
Next Row: Rib 8, P to button band, Rib 8.
Eyelet Row (RS): Rib 8, K1, (yo, K2 tog) to button band, rib to end.
Next Row: Rib 8, P to button band, Rib 8.
Next row (RS): Rib 8, increase in every st across by tipping the left needle forward and knitting into the purl bump one row below, then knit into the st on the needle. Rib last 8 sts. Change to size 8 circular needle.
Next Row: Rib across button band, purl to button band, rib button band.
Next Row: BO sts of button band, K to end (eliminate ribbing on button band) and join to knit skirt in the rnd.

Cont knitting skirt until dress measures 14 (16, 17, 20, 22, 24)" from top of neck.

Work eyelet rnd: *yo, K2 tog* all around. Knit 3 more rnds. BO loosely.
Fold on eyelet row and sl stitch hem into place for skirt and sleeves. Lace ribbon through eyelets at waist. Sew bottom of button band in place. Sew on buttons.

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Tamanho final: 1 m x 1 m

Fio: 10 novelos de 50 g (para agulhas 4 / 4,5 mm) 100% lã

        resto de lã em tom contrastante (para o ponto de cobertor)

Agulhas: 5,5 mm (para que a manta fique fofa e maleável, é importante usar o número de agulhas acima do indicado nos novelos)

Montar 5 malhas.

Tricotar em ponto jarreteira (sempre meia ou sempre liga), aumentando 1 malha de cada lado, a cada  2 carreiras, até ter chegado ao final do 5º novelo.

Diminuir 1 malha de cada lado a cada duas carreiras, até voltar a ter apenas 5 malhas.

Rematar.

Pespontar a toda a volta em ponto de cobertor.

Do site www.craftpassion.com - Crochet: Basket Weave Afghan – Baby Blanket

Difficulty Level: Intermediate, must know how to crochet FPdc, BPdc, dc, hdc, sc & ch

Finished size: approx. 42″ (W) x 33″ (L)
Gauge: Not essential as long as the hook size matches the medium worsted yarn weight.
Basket weave pattern (2 x 2 squares in the weave = 6 sts x 4 row) = approx. 1 1/2″ (W) x 1 2/5″ (L)
Border (3 sts x 6 row) = approx.  1 1/2″ (W) x 1 1/2″ (L)

Materials & Tools:
1. Yarn – Brand: Lion, Range: Cotton Ease, Weight: medium worsted, Color: Lake (Misty Cool Blue), qty: 9 balls x 100g
2. Yarn – Brand: Lion, Range: Cotton, Weight: medium worsted, Color: Natural (Soft Cream), qty: 1 ball x 140g
3. Crochet hook: H or 5 mm
4. Tapestry Needle (to weave and hide yarn ends)
5. Scissor

Abbreviations:
ch = chain
hdc= half double crochet
dc=double crochet
FPdc=Front Post double crochet
BPdc=Back Post double crochet
sc=single crochet
st = stitch
slst = slip stitch
sk=skip
fo = fasten off

Patterns:

Basket Weave Afghan
[with yarn 1 (blue)]
Starting Row: ch156, turn.
Row 1 : sk 3 ch, dc in the 4th ch from hook, ch2, turn. (Counting the first sk 3 ch as 1dc, there is 154dc on this row)
Row 2 & 3 : skip first st, hdc1 on the next st, *FPdc3, BPdc3* repeat 25 times until last 2 sts. hdc2, ch2 (deem as first st for the following row), turn.
Row 4 & 5 : skip 1st st, hdc1 on the next st, *BPdc3, FPdc3* repeat 25 times until last 2 sts. hdc2, ch2, turn.
Repeat row 2 to 5 until row 85 or until the blanket measure about 30″, ending with either row 3 or row 5 pattern minus the ch2 st.

Border
Determine which side you want as the front of the blanket to crochet the border. There is no turning on the border, all stitches are done on the front.
[with yarn 1 (blue)]
Round 1 : Ch1, 3 sc in the same corner. sc1 on every st around the entire blanket, with 3 sc in each corner. slst to the beginning ch. fo. Don’t turn.
[with yarn 2 (cream)]
Round 2 – 6 : Ch1, sc on back loops only around entire blanket, with 3 sc in each corner. slst to the beginning ch, don’t turn. fo after finish row 6.
Weave and hide all yarn ends.

This picture shows that after you have done the first row of double crochet and working on the row 2 for the FPdc and BPdc stitches.
Notice the horizontal line created by the BPdc? Keep in mind that when ever a BPdc is done, a horizontal line will be formed by the previous row stitch’s loop.
And, for FPdc, vertical lines will be formed.
By doing FPdc and BPdc follow the pattern creates the basket weave effects.
Also, note that, when turning the crochet piece for the next row, the previous row’s BPdc will look like FPdc.
When you crochet the odd number row (row 3, 5, 7, 9,… etc), crochet FPdc when you see FPdc, and vice versa.
After completing Row 3, you will have 2 horizontal lines and this is a set of basket weave row.
To begin the next weave row (even number row, i.e. row 2, 4,6,… etc), all you need to do is reverse what you see on the previous row, i.e. crochet FPdc when you see a BPdc stitch, vice versa.
Upon completing row 4, where you reverse the FPdc and BPdc, the weave effect is more obvious. The BPdc stitches are horizontal and sunken in, while the FPdc stitches are vertical and bulging up. This give an illusion of basket weave appearance.
Continue the basket weave for the entire blanket until your reach row 85 or about 30″ length or until your last balls of yarn is close to finish.
Single crochet the border with 1 round of blue yarn, then, single crochet back loops only with 5 rounds of cream yarn.
Remember to single crochet 3 stitches in each stitch of the 4 corners.
Fasten off the yarn, weave and hide the yarn ends within the stitches.
~~~Done! Bravo~~~

 

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