Mostrar mensagens com a etiqueta Saia. Mostrar todas as mensagens
Mostrar mensagens com a etiqueta Saia. Mostrar todas as mensagens

segunda-feira, 23 de abril de 2012

Saia com bolsos II - Daqui www.crafterhoursblog.com










And of course this skirt would be just as beautiful with any printed fabric you like as well.

Materials:



1 1/2 yards main fabric (I used Kona cotton)
1" or 1/2" elastic
small piece of fusible interfacing
if side pockets are desired, you'll need about a fat quarter
thread, etc.
paint and freezer paper for freezer paper stencil

Take your waist measurement:
Measure where on your waist you'd like your skirt to sit. Be sure to measure next to your skin, not over top of clothing. That measurement will be W in our equation. [in brackets are the measurements I used]

Skirt pieces, cut two:
W + 1" seam allowance by whatever length you'd like. I found 21 inches worked well for me, adjust as necessary depending on your desired skirt length. [33" wide by 21" tall]

For the front flat band piece, cut one:
1/2 W + 1" seam allowance = width of band by 5" tall [17" wide by 5" tall]

Back band piece, cut 1:
Same width as skirt piece by 5" tall [33" wide by 5" tall]

Cut elastic:
one piece of 1" elastic: 1/2 W minus 2-3"

Make waist band:
Fuse interfacing to WRONG side of front band piece.


Iron both front and back band pieces in half lengthwise WRONG sides facing.


Unfold and iron one raw edge lengthwise WRONG sides facing by 1/2". Repeat for remaining piece.


Sew short ends together using a 1/2" seam allowance, RIGHT sides facing. Press.


After this step you'll have a loop for the waistband. Set aside.

Sew skirt pieces:

Gather one of the skirt pieces at the top using the longest stitch length on your machine, gather so it is the same length as your front band piece, in my case, 17". This will be the front of your skirt.

If sewing side pockets, cut 4 pocket pieces, it's a pretty basic shape. You can quickly make your own by laying your hand down on a piece of paper and tracing around the general shape, giving plenty of wiggle room. About 2-3" down from the top of the skirt piece pin pocket pieces on either side of both skirt pieces RIGHT sides facing. Sew pocket piece on, aligning raw edges, using a 1/2" seam allowance.


Press away from skirt piece. Repeat for all pocket pieces.

Sew skirt:
If you're omitting the side pockets, put skirt pieces RIGHT sides together and sew along each side using a 1/2" seam allowance.


If using side pockets, sew using a 1/2 seam allowance as well, but sewing down the side, pivoting at the pocket, sew all around pocket, pivot and continue by finishing sewing down the remaining part of the skirt. Serge, zig zag or leave side seams raw.

Attaching band:


Pin band (which is now a loop) to skirt top RIGHT sides facing aligning raw edges - not the side of that band that you previously ironed under by 1/2".


Sew together, aligning side seams, using a 5/8" seam allowance.


Press seam up towards band.

Sew in elastic:
**See alternate method below...
Otherwise you can continue on and sew it in the way I did.



Pin elastic at side seams so that the elastic runs along the back band piece, raw elastic edges pointing towards front band.


Fold waistband WRONG sides facing over elastic.


Sew down seam, making sure you're using a thread color that will match your fabric since it will show. I back stitched along this seam several times to make sure the elastic would stay put. Repeat for other side of skirt being sure not to twist the elastic.


Folding remaining band over so that it covers the raw edges of the skirt etc, topstitch along bottom of both front and back bands.


Making sure you tuck the elastic in towards the band as you go. It can be kind of tedious, but take your time and you can slide the band pieces along the elastic as you get to the other side.

*** There are many ways you can sew in the elastic, that way seemed most logical to me. You could alternately: just sew in one side seam with the elastic - making sure to attach a safety pin to the other end, then sew the back casing almost closed, leaving a 2-3" opening. Reach into the casing, pull the elastic the rest of the way through, pinch it in between the remaining side seam, sew it in like you did the first side, then simply sew the opening you left shut (oh and don't forget to take off the safety pin).


 

Saia com bolsos - Daqui: projectsbyjess.blogspot.pt

Saia com bolsos





 

 


So get your cheap fabric and decide what variation you like and make a skirt with pockets!
Supplies:
-Fabric: 1.5 yards
-elastic thread
- elastic 3/8" or 1/2" wide, enough to fit comfortable around your hips
 

Cut:
-2 rectangles (skirt front and back)
22 to 25" {length of skirt} x 32 to 34" {skirt width to be scrunched}
There's been readers a lot thinner than me that found 32" skirt width too big, sorry! so here's a more precise formula for skirt front/back width:
Measure around hips x 1.75 = total width of skirt
divide total by 2 to get the width of the two skirt rectangles
I like my skirts longer than standard and cut them 25" long, then after hem and waist casing they end up being around 23 inches long finsihed. The skirt width is pretty forgiving once it gets all scrunched up, so I cut it to what works best with my fabric
-4 pocket pieces

1. Print and cut out pattern pieces.
The "Pocket A" piece is used as a cut guide.

2. Cut Skirt Pocket Holes
Take one of your skirt rectangles and cut the pocket piece from both sides.

3. Cut Pockets
Cut out 4 pocket B pieces. For this tutorial I used light blue fabric for the front of the pockets to help see as you sew. I usually cut all 4 pockets from the coordinating fabric so they're all the same.

Cut "Pocket A" shape out of 2 pocket pieces, or in my case, the pocket front pieces.

4. Make Pockets
Place the cut pocket pieces on the full pocket pieces, right sides together, and make sure you have a left and right.


Sew around large outside curves of each pocket.

5. Sew on Pockets
Turn the pocket inside out (seam on inside) and pin curve of pocket to right side of skirt front. So the right side of the pocket front fabric will be sewn to the right side of the skirt front fabric. Then when you flip the pocket back over the finished curve seam, the right side of the skirt and both pocket pieces will all be right sides up when you look down into the pocket.
**If you are adding bias tape to pocket edge, this step is different as shown at the end with striped pockets***

Sew the pocket to the skirt front along the curve.

6. Finish pocket edges.
Flip the pocket right side out and top stitch the curve of the pocket. I sew 2 rows along the curve.

This is what the back of the skirt looks like when the pocket is sewn on.

7. Baste Pocket
Keep the pocket lined up and baste the pocket to the skirt at the top and side so it all lays flat.

8. Side Seams
Place the other skirt rectangle (skirt back) right sides together with skirt front and sew side seams with 1/2"seam allowance.

9. Sew Elastic Casing
Zig-zag or serge the top edge of skirt. Decide what width of elastic you want and iron the edge down so it's large enough for your elastic.
Mine: 3/8" elastic, ironed edge down 1/2"

Sew the casing down, but remember to leave a 1-2" hole for elastic casing

10. Shir Waistband
To sew shirring is really easy. You do need to have the elastic thread which is the key. You find it in the notions section in a package.

The pain is you have to wind the bobbin by hand. You want the thread wound without stretching it because it gets stretched as you sew.

With the elastic thread in your bobbin, you just sew like normal. I don't change the tension, but I do increase my stitch length up to 3.0. Also, make sure you are sewing with the bobbin on the back of the fabric as the elastic thread is thick and white.
Also, rather than sew a perfect row, I start at one point and spiral down the skirt. This way the elastic thread doesn't need to be cut. I sew along the edge of the presser foot to make rows 1/4" apart. I usually make it 8-10 rows.

11. Insert Elastic
Use a safety pin to thread elastic through casing, then sew the ends together and sew the hole closed.

12. Hem skirt
You're finished!

BIAS TAPE POCKET ALTERNATIVE
The only difference with this method is you don't have to flip the pocket inside out before sewing it to the skirt due to the fact the bias tape covers the unfinished seam.

Sew along the pocket curve 1/4" seam allowance.

Top-stitch 1/2" double fold bias tape along pocket edge.