terça-feira, 13 de março de 2012

Outro vestido de menina do site www.craftinessisnotoptional.com



And now for the Junebug dress tutorial/sew along. (without much fanfare apparently)


You'll need:

1-2 yards of fabric, depending on child's size. I barely scraped by with one yard for my 2T size
6 buttons-for the pattern I provide no larger than 5/8"
thread, sewing and pattern making stuff (ie sewing machine and paper)

You can download the free 2T/3T pattern here. I say @2T/slash/3T because Sadie's kind of in the middle of the two sizes....the finished dimensions of this pattern are 21" around the waist, 8" around for the sleeves (though you can definitely use more elastic to get a wider opening), and 18" from collarbone to hem.

Ok, if you're not using the pattern, let's get going and make your own! First you'll need to trace a tee that fits your child-see more about that here.

This will be the back piece of your bodice-so trace the back neckline. Add seam allowances-I allow for 1/4" in my pattern. Measure down how far you'd like the bodice to go on your child. and draw a line across.


Next, cut out your back piece, and trace it again. Then draw a half-square neckline-dropping off before it hits the fold line. (left side of pattern in pic)

Then cut out that pattern, trace the back piece again, and draw your bodice flap pattern. It should flare out a little bit on the bottom (ie not go straight down), and curve up a little bit where it meets the bodice front piece. Add seam allowances on the top and side of this piece. (again, about 1/4")

Then I drew a sleeve shape like this one for my gathered sleeve. These are really easy to draw and forgiving too. Make sure to square it off, ie, make sure lines are straight.

There. Now label your patterns as shown, and cut out your fabric from the pattern pieces.

Tomorrow: bodice and buttonholes!
 
PARTE 2
 


Click below for the full tutorial!



Take your two flap pieces and lay them down right sides together, pin, and sew around the sides and top. Clip the corners, turn right side out and press.


Do the same with the bodice sides, but sew them right sides together-and not at the shoulders or arm holes yet. Clip the corners, and turn right side out. Just the inside little "stair step" portion.

Press well.

Then make a bodice sandwich. place the bodice sides in between bodice back pieces and pin together at the neckline and shoulders.

Sew along the neckline and shoulders.

Flip right sides out and press.

This is what you should have now.

Make sure everything fits together alright. good? good.


Now lay out your buttons and mark where to make your button holes.

Make your button holes and rip them open.

Then lay out the bodice with sides matching so it's placed correctly, and place the bodice flap in the center. Pin and baste to the bottom of the edges of the bodice sides.
 
PARTE 3
 


Click below for the full tutorial!



For the sleeves, this is a handy trick to make elastic casings a wee bit easier. Fold over the sleeve 1/4"...

and then another 1/2". (or less, but I wanted a bit of a ruffled look on the edge, so I sewed my casing in about 1/8" from the edge, but more on that later) Do not sew it closed yet!

Then sew a gathering stitch along the curved part of the sleeve and gather to fit the armhole. You can see I concentrated the gathers at the top of the sleeve. It's up to you!

Sew them in and finish the seams, then unfold the ironed part of the sleeves, pin the sides of the bodice and sleeve right sides together and sew and finish them up as well.

For the sleeves, fold down the ironed part once...

..and then once more, then pin, and sew your casing.

Leave a spot open for the elastic. I also sewed a line around close to the other edge, to create the slight ruffle on the edge of the sleeve. Cut your 1/4" elastic for the sleeves (I cut mine 8" long), thread it through with a safety pin, and sew the ends together. Then sew the opening closed. Repeat for other sleeve.

As far as the skirt goes, I didn't have much fabric left, so I cut it into two pieces (20 wide x 16" long), folded the two pieces in half (no pic of this, sorry) and cut the sides into a slight (very slight) A-line shape.

If you're making your own pattern, you can figure out how long to make the skirt by measuring your child...add inches for the hem and seam allowance....and then the width is up to you, it depends on how gathered you want it to be! My width was about twice the measurement of the bodice, if that helps.

Then I sewed the two pieces right sides together...

...gathered the top of the skirt to fit the bottom of the bodice...pinned and sewed them right sides together.


Then hemmed the bottom by folding and ironing up 1/2", then another 2". I like a wide hem once in awhile. I sewed two rows of stitching for extra fanciness.

Then sew your buttons on, and you're done!

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