terça-feira, 13 de março de 2012

Tutorial de Avental de Menina do site craftinessisnotoptional.com e Bolso do site www.made-by-rae.com






So, here's what you'll need:

one piece of fabric 18"x12" for the main fabric...also a piece of the same size for the back-I used muslin (not shown) you could easily make this reversible-cute!

bias tape-homemade or bought

piece of fabric 72"x3"-folded in half and ironed (for your sash/tie)

a pocket if you would like one

the regular sewing stuff-thread, machine, scissors, etc..

First, fold your main piece of fabric in half width wise, and using a plate or something circular, round off the edges and cut them off...do this to your backing fabric also!

Next, sew on your pocket if you have one.

Now lay out your main pieces, wrong sides together, and pin around the sides and bottom...

Baste them together along the edges...

Now, wrap your bias tape around the edge of your apron, and pin together...

tada!
Now sew along the edge carefully, making sure to catch the back of the bias tape as you go.

Now sew a basting/gathering stitch along the top of your apron, and pull one of the threads to gather it together.

For your sash/tie-press the sides in about 1/4 inch with your iron, and then in half...just like big bias tape!

Now on the ends, fold the edge under like this:

and then together like so. pin.

Find the middle of your sash/apron, and sandwich your apron in the sash/tie thing.

Pin it in!

starting on the end of your tie, sew the end closed, turn your sash, and continue down the sash.

take your time top stitching over the gathers, and continue to the other end...back stitch a few times at the end.

tada! you're done! This would be easy enough to scale up for an adult apron-that would be adorable!



BOLSO

Materials
For EACH POCKET cut:
  • 1 rectangle for the top band of the pocket: 1.5″x12″ for narrower band (yellow one, shown in tutorial) or 2″x13″ for wider band (pink one pictured above)
  • 2 rectangles for the bottom of the pocket: 5.5″ x 8″ each
Instructions
Step 1: Press under 1/4″ along the bottom side of the top band (I did both sides but later realized I should have just done one).


Step 2: Fold top part of pocket in half lengthwise.

Step 3: With a 1/4″ seam allowance, sew around just two edges of the top band, the top edge and the side across from the fold (has been marked with purple in picture below). This will leave the bottom edge (the one you pressed) open.

Step 4: Clip corners.

Step 5: Turn right-side out, poking the corners out with a tweezers or a pencil or some special thingamabob you purchased for this very purpose. Press. If you are smart you will also fold and press the raw bottom edges under along the folds you made in Step 1. Did I do this? NO. Dur!
Now set this piece aside.

Step 6: With right sides together and a 1/4″ seam, sew the bottom pocket pieces together, leaving the top open. When you do the corners, instead of making them square, sew them as rounded as you can. FOR BEST RESULTS, DRAW THE CURVES WITH A FABRIC MARKER BEFORE YOU SEW! One rounded corner closeup is shown below:

Step 7: Trim corners off with scissors and clip seams.

Step 8: Turn right-side out and press.

Step 9: Tuck bottom part of pocket into top band, making sure the folded edge of the top band is tucked inside, and pleating the bottom piece to taste*. I would tuck at least 1/2″ into the band. The size of the pleats will vary depending on how wide your top band is, but I would guess they will be about 1/2″ deep; adjust the size of the pleats so that the edges of the bottom piece fits exactly inside the top band. Pin pleats to secure.
*Want the one you see in the picture? On the pink pockets I made two pleats facing out about 2″ from edge of pocket. On the yellow pockets I made two pleats facing one way about an inch apart. For the bird pocket I put one large pleat in the center facing inward).
One other thing here: I found that the pocket looks better when the corners of the bottom piece go farther into the top band than the center, so don’t feel like you need to make the edge of the bottom even with the edge of the top. If anything this will help your pocket pucker more.

Step 10: With the pocket facing up, topstitch across the bottom of the top band to close everything up. The closer you are to the edge, the harder it is to “catch” both the top and bottom edges of the top band, so be careful. You may want to baste first with the back side up or do some extra pinning. I’m a glutton for punishment so I always just wing it and then end up inevitably tearing out the part I missed. Of course I remain graceful and dignified as I do so. Always.
Here is a view of the finished pocket from the back (I used a white lining for one of my rectangles because I was short on fabric. You don’t see the inside anyway):

And the front:
Notice that it looks a little uneven still; this will go away once you sew it to your garment. Remove pins, press it, pin to your garment and sew around the edges to secure. If you pin it so that the top band doesn’t lay completely flat against the garment, the pocket will have more of a rounded look and will pucker away from the garment somewhat.
Finished dimensions are approximately 6″ x 7″

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