
Pattern:
Download pattern here.
Materials:
1. Fabric – 2 colors [20" x 9" each] or 3 colors [14" x 9" each]
2. Batting [with iron-on adhesive] – 14″ x 8″
3. Metal Frame [sewn type]- Arch shaped, 8.5 cm
4. Cotton cord – 2″
5. Cardboard or letter size paper
6. Sewing thread
7. Strong sewing threadTools:
1. Sewing machine with normal presser foot
2. Sewing needle and pins
3. Pencil & marker
4. Erasable fabric marker
5. Iron
6. Add seam allowance tool
7. Blunt tip tweezersSeam Allowance:
7mm or approx. 1/4″Finished Dimension:
5″ (W) x 6″ (H)

Feed the letter size paper into your printer and print the patten without setting any scale on the printing.
{the pdf download will either open in new tab or open a small window asking you to save it as file. If you can’t find the saved file in your computer, the default folder usually is in “/downloads”}
{If you can’t download the pdf pattern, probably you don’t have acrobat reader, download the latest version for free, here.}

For purse making, normally I will make a pattern template using a cardboard so it is easy to trace, add seam allowance and can be used repeatedly.

Mark frame markings on the fabric too.
For fabrics that has directional print, the narrower side of the the pattern is the top and the wider side is the bottom.
For fabrics with no directional print, reverse the template in tracing to reduce fabric wastage.


Pin the batting onto the wrong side of the traced fabric with adhesive side down.
Only 6 pcs of the fabrics need batting, lining fabrics don’t need batting.

Increase the heat level if the batting cannot bond well on the fabric.
Do not iron directly on the batting, the heat will melt the material.

Note that, for this 3-color design, 2 of each color will have batting on them, the other 2 are without batting which act as lining.
For 2-color design, 3 of each color will have batting on them and vice-versa.

Make 3 little snips at seam allowance on the narrow waist of the pear.
Press seam allowance to the center piece, top stitch near the seam to set it in place.


Align, pin and sew around. Leave a 1 1/2″ opening for turning the right side out.

Sew to close the opening.
Top stitch near the edge.
Repeat to make another half pear.

Perform back-loop slip stitch a.k.a backstitch in hidden stitch, will make the seam more durable.

Aligned the metal frame center line to the purse center line. Aligned the metal frame end points to the frame marking on the purse. Back stitch with strong thread to install the metal frame to the purse.
This tutorial might be helpful for frame installation.
The purse’s top edge is slightly bigger than the metal frame, evenly spread the extra across the frame while sewing to achieve a nice curve for the pear’s neck.
[You can use the normal glue & clamp type of frame if you cannot find the sewn type.]


Make a small cut of about 1/2″ on the non-batting side.
Turn the leaf right side out from the small opening by using a pair of tweezers.



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